A Paper Dream: How Washi Continues to Shape Art, Design, and Fashion

Washi, the traditional Japanese paper, has been used for centuries in various artistic, cultural, and practical applications. Originating in the 7th century, washi is made from the fibers of plants such as mulberry (kōzo), mitsumata, and gampi. Its production follows an intricate, labor-intensive process that results in a paper renowned for its durability, flexibility, and aesthetic qualities.

Historically, washi has played a crucial role in Japanese culture. It has been used for calligraphy, painting, bookbinding, and religious texts, particularly Buddhist sutras. Artists and craftsmen have long valued washi for its ability to absorb ink and pigments, making it a preferred medium for woodblock prints (ukiyo-e) and traditional painting.

In architecture and interior design, washi is integral to shoji (sliding paper doors) and fusuma (room dividers), allowing for soft light diffusion while maintaining privacy. The material is not only aesthetically pleasing but also lightweight, easy to handle, and sustainable, which has contributed to its continued use. Its biodegradable and eco-friendly properties have made it particularly relevant in contemporary discussions on sustainable materials. Recognizing its historical and cultural significance, UNESCO designated washi as an Intangible Cultural Heritage in 2014, underscoring the importance of its preservation.

Despite modernization, Japanese paper continues to be widely used in contemporary art, design, fashion, and even technology, demonstrating its remarkable adaptability. Isamu Noguchi, the renowned Japanese-American artist and designer, was deeply influenced by traditional Japanese crafts, including washi. He incorporated the material into his iconic Akari light sculptures, which he began designing in 1951. Inspired by traditional chōchin (paper lanterns), Noguchi collaborated with artisans in Gifu, a region famous for its high-quality washi, to create these sculptural lamps. The combination of washi and bamboo frames resulted in lightweight, organic forms that diffused light beautifully, blending traditional craftsmanship with modernist aesthetics. His work helped popularize washi beyond Japan, introducing it to the global stage and demonstrating its versatility in modern art and interior design.

In contemporary furniture design, Tokujin Yoshioka and Nendo have explored the potential of Japanese paper through innovative seating concepts. Yoshioka’s Honey-Pop chair exemplifies the innovative potential of washi by harnessing its flexibility, strength, and lightweight nature to form a collapsible honeycomb structure. Made from multiple layers of washi paper that expand like an accordion, the chair takes shape only when sat upon, molding itself to the user's body and providing both support and comfort. Nendo's Cabbage Chair was conceived in response to a challenge from fashion designer Issey Miyake, who invited Nendo to repurpose the pleated paper discarded during the production of his 'Pleats Please' fabric line. Designer Oki Sato transformed these rolls of waste paper into a chair by slicing the material and peeling back its layers, creating a functional and sustainable piece that embodies innovative reuse of industrial by-products.

More recently, Issey Miyake has incorporated washi into his fashion collections, further demonstrating the material's adaptability in contemporary applications. The IM MEN Spring/Summer 2024 collection, for example, integrates washi-based textiles, blending traditional Japanese craftsmanship with modern technology. By weaving washi fibers into fabrics, Miyake creates garments that are lightweight, breathable, and durable, offering both aesthetic refinement and high functionality.

Further cementing his exploration of washi, in 2024, Issey Miyake presented the exhibition “On Washi” at The CREATION SPACE at ISSEY MIYAKE SEMBA. This special installation highlighted washi’s unique characteristics and the brand’s commitment to merging heritage with innovation. The exhibition showcased the intricate craftsmanship behind washi-based textiles, offering an immersive experience into how the material is transformed from handmade paper into high-performance fabrics. By dedicating an exhibition space to washi, Miyake reaffirmed his role as a pioneer in material experimentation and sustainable fashion, emphasizing the importance of preserving and reinterpreting traditional Japanese craftsmanship for the future.

Miyake’s use of washi reflects his long-standing commitment to material experimentation and sustainability. Washi fibers are naturally strong and biodegradable, aligning with contemporary eco-conscious fashion trends. This integration of washi into high-fashion textiles continues the legacy of Japanese craftsmanship while pushing the boundaries of fabric innovation—just as Isamu Noguchi transformed washi in lighting design.

From ancient manuscripts to modern fashion runways, from traditional lanterns to avant-garde furniture, washi remains a testament to the enduring relevance of Japanese craftsmanship. Its ability to merge tradition with innovation ensures that this humble yet extraordinary paper continues to shape the world of art, design, and fashion.